Installing with your Window A/C:
1. Install any brand of window A/C unit which you’ve purchased separately. (See our A/C Selection Guide to make sure you have the right air conditioner for your space). Cut an appropriate-sized hole in the wall of your walk-in cooler, put the A/C unit into the hole, and then use some type of insulation, like foam sleeves for pipes, so that you can easily remove the A/C instead of having to carve it out in case you switch A/Cs in the future.
2. Plug the CoolBot into a standard outlet – the CoolBot uses no more electricity than a cell-phone charger, so no special electrical connections are needed.
3. There are three labeled wires coming out of the CoolBot:
- The first (labeled “Room”) measures the temperature of the room. Let it hang free, but make sure it is not making contact with any metal and not in the direct pathway of the cold air coming from the A/C.
- The second wire (labeled “FIN Sensor”) is placed into the front cooling fins of the A/C unit. Gently place the sensor as low as possible, but ABOVE the first horizontal cooling tube. Use a pen or pencil to widen a space 1-2 inches up from the bottom and put the fin sensor 1/3 of an inch in so it is not touching the coolant pipes behind them. It should stay there on its own. No tape or screws. You may need to gently pinch the fins closed around the sensor, but be careful not to damage the sensor.
- The third wire (labeled “Heater”) attaches to the A/C’s temperature sensor. The temperature sensor actually comes out of the A/C; on a new A/C the temperature sensor will be mounted on small plastic brackets in front of the fins. Wrap the CoolBot “Heater” wire up with that air-conditioner temperature sensor using a small 1/2 inch by 1 inch piece of aluminum foil (included) to ensure a good thermal connection. Allow this foil pack to hang freely away from any metal and out of the direct pathway of cold air.
4. The CoolBot comes pre-programmed to cool your room down to 42°F (5.6°C), however, you can set it to whatever temperature you want. Click here for more information on how to program your CoolBot.
Secondary Sensor Removal:
If you have a GE Window Unit that is over 12,000 BTU (Kenmores, Arctic King, most Frigidaires, Comfortaire, Soleus, Black and Decker or Danby), there will be a secondary sensor! This must be disengaged in order for the CoolBot to work properly.
Look straight down from your air conditioner control panel area to the side of the front fins. You should see silver or copper colored coolant pipes. Look for a temperature sensor attached to the lowest or second lowest “U” of the coolant pipe. It could be attached with a plastic wire-tie, but usually is stuck in a little copper cup welded onto the pipe. Slip the sensor out of the sleeve. Use a dull knife and be sure to not cut the sensor! You might have to cut some plastic ties to hold it in place.
On some A/C units (like GE units >15,000 BTU’s), you can not see the coils until you remove the plastic cover. If this applies to your A/C unit, you will need to remove the screws and pop off the cover.
Here is a picture of that secondary sensor if its behind the second panel:
And a close up of what it looks like:
If you want the temperature in your room below 40°F (4.4°C), you need to attach the secondary sensor that you just freed to the outside of the foil packet containing the CoolBot heater wire and the plastic tipped A/C temperature sensor. You can attach the sensor with aluminum foil or just one layer of electrical tape.
Below is a video on locating your secondary sensor on a Frigidaire Window A/C. You often find a secondary sensor on units 12K BTU and above.
Installing with your Mini-Split A/C:
We love mini-splits. They are more efficient than conventional window air conditioners and they are extremely well built. The CoolBot runs perfectly on most brands of mini-split – our favorites are LG, Mitsubishi, Friedrich Breeze, and Samsung (avoid Panasonic, Fedders, Midea and Electrolux). If you want to get a brand other than these you’ll probably be fine, but please feel free to email us if you have any questions!
Steps to install your Split / Mini-Split / Ductless System
These notes are in addition to our normal instructions. Basically, the set up is exactly the same: all air conditioners have the same parts, but sometimes pieces on mini-splits are in slightly different locations. Read the normal instructions first and then scan through these notes, and it will be easier to set up.
Before you install the mini-split, look for the A/C thermostat and Secondary thermostat; they are a lot easier when the mini-split unit is not mounted on the wall.
1. You will still gently insert the FIN sensor into the front fins of the mini-split (just like with the window units) but, if you have a freeze up problem, then watch how the ice forms and move the sensor to where the ice first starts to form.
2. Be careful about sticking the FIN sensor in the fins, because they can get cut on the sharp fins. Open up a spot in the fins with a screwdriver or pen or pencil, and then carefully insert the sensor into that spot. Then gently push the fins back around the sensor so it does not fall out.
3. Just as with a window unit, you only want to push the tip end of the sensor into the fins about 1/4-1/3 of an inch so the tip is full in the fins, but not sticking out the backside of the fins.
4. If you have to change the location of the sensor, it is easy to “bend the fins” back into place after you pull the sensor out.
5. Finding the room sensor on the air conditioner is sometimes a bit harder with mini-splits than it is with window units. On window units, it’s right in the middle of the fins, but on mini-splits it’s often on the top back side and it’s a bit short. We tell people to try to find it before they install the mini-split on the wall, so there is less hassle as you are installing it.
- It can also be hidden in other weird places, like inside the plastic casing away from the fins or even just a nub on the board. If you have trouble finding yours, please let us know and we will do our best to help you.
6. Secondary Sensors: This is also the same as with window units. Most mini-splits do not have secondary sensors, but a few have two sensors. If you see multiple secondary sensors, just remove the one that is lowest and let it hang (you do not need to attach it to the aluminum foil like I say to do in the Window Installation instructions).If you have secondary sensors(s), they will be attached to coolant pipes. In our instructions for window units, we mentioned that the sensors are put into copper cups attached the the coolant pipes. That can be true with some brands of mini-splits, but more often I’ve seen that they are attached to the coolant pipes with plastic “wire ties”. You might not even have one! But if you hook it up and it’s not getting very cold (or it is getting cold very slowly), then it’s worth looking to see if you do.
- If you have secondary sensors(s), they will be attached to coolant pipes. In our instructions for window units, we mentioned that the sensors are put into copper cups attached the coolant pipes. That can be true with some brands of mini-splits, but more often I’ve seen that they are attached to the coolant pipes with plastic “wire ties”. You might not even have one! But if you hook it up and it’s not getting very cold (or it is getting cold very slowly), then it’s worth looking to see if you do.
Gallery of Mini Split Sensors
Here are some pictures of where to find the secondary sensor. The mini-split with the housing taken off:
A close up on the right-hand side where the secondary sensor is:
And this is what you’re looking for:
Mr. Slim Unit: Our friend Brandon was kind enough to share these excellent pictures of a Mitsubishi Mr. Slim Unit
Here is a shot of the unit with the cover and air direction blades removed
There are 2 thermostats on the top right-hand corner, one (secondary) clipped on in a silver clip and one (main) sitting in a copper cup. This copper cup has a copper lever that secures the thermostat inside the cup. Gently pull the lever up to free the thermostat
Here are the two sensors pulled up and away from the unit
The room thermostat is a little tricky to find. It is located inside the dark grey electronic control panel. It is tucked in behind the square piece of grey plastic (to the right of thumb nail).
Here is the final set up. The CoolBot heater is foiled to the A/C room thermostat and tucked up away from the air flow. The 2 coil thermostats stand free.
The Daikin’s primary sensor is part of the board itself.
Here is a picture of the Daikin with the housing removed and the CoolBot already hooked up. You can see the board is in the lower left hand corner.
This is what the board looks like when its removed. The part labeled “RHT1” is the temperature sensor on this unit.
You can see the heater zip-tied into place and the board tucked back onto the unit here.
With the wonderful help of Lauren in Virginia we are able to share these pictures. They have their primary sensor hidden under a little black cage in the upper right hand corner.
We have to pull that black cage off the fins and you’ll see the primary sensor is clipped on the backside.
Un-clip the primary sensor so it can then be wrapped up with the CoolBot Heater
Below you can see the secondary sensor is the wire all wrapped up in the foamy black insulation tape, unwrap it.
Finally, we wrap the primary sensor to the Heater using the foil, and then use a zip tie or electric tape to hold the secondary sensor along the foil pack too.
This one is a bit of a work in process. We know that there are two secondary sensors. Sometimes only one on the LG, and they can be found on the coils, inserted into copper cups. The primary sensor comes out of the circuit board and attaches into the plastic on the inside (not the outer shell).
Here are some pictures of a VM122CS split system, starting with the cover removed and the secondary sensor circled in red
Here is a close up shot of the secondary sensor
The primary sensor is a little harder to find. It is off the right hand side and tucked up along the plastic.